WHAT IS ORGANIC FARMING?

Organic farming is a method in which only natural products and mixtures with different types of environmentally respectable techniques are used. No chemicals are used: pesticides, herbicides or artificial fertilizers.

This type of crop is a process-oriented production system rather than the products themselves.

The initial investment will make the cost in the different production steps higher than in traditional methods, in return, you get a higher quality end product: tastier, nutritious, healthy and with greater edible durability, characteristics by which the end consumer is willing to make a higher economic outlay.

For a crop to be considered organic, it is imperative to use water, at least, without chlorine.

Hydroponic basil cultivation 

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN ORGANIC AND MINERAL

Mineral fertilizers (non-organic) are basically obtained through the combination of different raw elemental mineral salts, while organic fertilizers are made from algae extracts and residues of plant and animal matter. Hence the price difference between the two ranges: the cost in raw materials.

Another of the main differences is in the relationship between the quantity and quality of the final product. Mineral fertilizers usually increase crops by reducing quality. The opposite occurs, almost always, with organic fertilizers: higher quality, but lower production. Almost always, because today, we can say that it is a myth.

With the use of hydroponic systems, new sources of LED lighting and advanced techniques such as SOG, SCROG, LST, robotization and the use of big data, there has been a dramatic increase in quantity, maintaining quality or even increasing it; promoting, above all, the aromas and flavors.

PESTICIDES

Pesticides are another area that generally confuses people when it comes to organic crops. Organic does not mean you cannot use pesticides. There are a variety of organic pesticides to counteract everything from mosquitoes to dusty fungi that are not toxic and leave no residue that affects the smell or taste (bacteriological fight).

Organic pesticides are also safe due to short safety times. These “safety deadlines” refer to the time required after an application before people can consume the fruits safely.

There are organic pesticides that can also be applied up to days before or even on the same day of harvest, while with non-organic ones they are likely to have a safety period of days or even weeks, which increases the pre-harvest interval from weeks to months.

Organic pesticides are effective and safe, since they have completely disappeared from the plant at the time of consumption.

ORGANIC MATTER IS BETTER

The main reason why organic matter is better is due to the increased bioavailability of nutrients. Organic nutrients are the livelihood most similar to what plants can find in nature. They are more easily absorbed by the plant, which ultimately results in greater bioavailability.

The reason for this is that when a plant grows in a natural environment, the plant elements and the remains of animal matter that break down to provide food, are transformed by fungi and beneficial soil microorganisms. Mineral nutrients are not as friendly with this environment and as a result you will get a soil that does not contain beneficial microorganisms or fungi, an extremely vital part during the growth cycle. In addition, organic farming encourages the growth of these beneficial microorganisms and fungi, which, in turn, metabolize raw elements in a form that is more easily absorbed by the plant.

There will be growers who will try to complement non-organic crops with beneficial microorganisms. However, the simple fact of the variation in the pH of the mineral nutrients is enough to kill them, which leaves them without additional beneficial microorganisms.

BENEFICIALS MICROORGANISMS AND FUNGI

The use of beneficial microorganisms and fungi in an organic crop is also practically mandatory, although not essential. Substances such as mycorrhizae, earthworm humus and bat guano (among others), must be essential components when creating fertile soil.

MYCORRHIZAE

Mycorrhizae is a beneficial type of fungus that grows in association with plant roots. Unlike most types of fungi, mycorrhizae is beneficial for plants. As a consequence, they are used as soil improvers and enhance growth. The mycorrhizae establish a symbiotic relationship with the roots of most plants. After entering the roots, they connect to each other by sending their filaments (also known as hyphae) and increase the depth of absorption. In return, plants provide glucose to mycorrhizae.

HUMUS

Humus is the organic material in the soil. It is not a form of substrate, but the composting of the decomposed remains of leaves, grass and other organic matter contained in the soil. It is highly nutritious and rich in minerals and microbes vital for healthy plant growth. It also has the property of retaining 80-90% of its own weight in moisture.

Raw organic matter attracts microorganisms that feed on it and break it down, turning it into humus. It can also be created artificially by using a home composting system, mixing with garden soil to provide a fertile bed.

GUANO

Guano is the fecal matter of bats and is used as a fertilizer, providing essential nutrients and minerals throughout the life of plants. It is frequently found in caves and must age for long periods of time before it can be used.

Guano may be more expensive, but it is one of the most potent natural fertilizers given its high content of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. It also contains a large amount of micronutrients that drive plant growth.

It can be purchased in several different formats, either in liquid form, similar to tea, or in dry form, from powder, more suitable for working with the garden substrate.

THE VEGAN CROP

To maximize the bioavailability of nutrients, vegan culture is a very good option … not to mention the optimal and best. As growers look for the most natural methods to grow cannabis, the tendency to work with these techniques is greater.

Vegan culture redefines simplicity and does not use animal products to maximize nutrient absorption. It creates it through the promotion of a habitat that is closest to nature in which fungi and beneficial microorganisms thrive freely.

The vegan crop revolves around the use of compost and compost teas to enrich the soil. Leftovers of grass, vegetables, cannabis leaves or any other green matter, will decompose over time, allowing a lot of compost to form a black mud at the bottom. As it decomposes, compost becomes home to a world of insects, larvae and fungi.

Proponents of vegan culture claim that the bioavailability of nutrients is 100%. Thanks to beneficial microorganisms and fungi, this massive increase in nutrient absorption results in greener leaves, denser buds, better aromas and a residue-free taste left by animal wastes in the typical organic crop. The simple fact of the change in this increase in nutrient absorption already makes it worth experiencing.

SO, IS ORGANIC BETTER?

The answer is short and blunt: yes and without any doubt. At this point, the important thing here is to understand and plan the needs and possibilities of each one.

In short: mineral fertilizers are cheaper and act, but they are not as effective as organic ones. If what is sought is to produce commercial quantities of cannabis, organic production will be expensive and more difficult to implement; However, for a self-cultivator, organic is the way to enter.

WHAT IS THE EC?

The EC is the ability of a compound to conduct electricity from the amount of mineral salts that are dissolved in it. That is why controlling EC (electro-conductivity) of water is a very important factor to consider for any grower or gardener.

Conductivity measurements are used in many industrial and environmental applications to control dissolved content in different liquids. They are also widely used in many industries, such as controlling the quality of drinking water supplies, boiler water, hospitals and all industries that depend on water quality.

WHAT DOES TAP WATER CONTAIN?

Tap water contains a multitude of elements, mineral salts, heavy metals (lead, zinc, boron) and different chemicals such as chlorine; if the plumbing facilities are also old, it is very likely that it will also contain traces of accumulated lime or oxides and sediments. Chlorine is used to kill all kinds of microorganisms, fungi, bacteria, pathogens and prevents the appearance of mold in stagnant waters. Removing chlorine from water is as important as lowering EC.

The quality of the drinking water of the place to which we have access to the network is such a determining factor that many companies take into account a careful choice of the location chosen when building or opening a new headquarters. If companies and multinationals look so much on water quality, why not do all growers and gardeners?

Tap water

HARDNESS OF THE WATER

Depending on the concentration of mineral salts dissolved in the water, we will distinguish between soft and hard water. The main difference between what we call soft and hard water is that in the latter there is a high concentration of calcium ions (Ca2) and magnesium (Mg2) dissolved.

Soft water is called those whose measurements do not exceed a range of 70-150ppm while hard water is those whose range ranges from 320-420ppm.

Depending on the geographical area in which we are, we will have access to one type of water or another since not all places use the same techniques for water treatment. In addition, widespread rises in temperatures in summer seasons stimulate the proliferation and reproduction of fungi, parasites and microbes, causing chlorine doses in the drinking water network to also be higher during these dates.

HOW CAN WE MEASURE EC?

There are different types of EC measuring instruments available in the market, with a wide range of prices, all of them valid and functional, depending on the decimals we want you to show us. There are also those that perform different functions, as well as measure pH and temperature (so-called combos) on a constant basis, mandatory for use through the different hydroponic techniques.

Bluelab Combo meter

MEASURING UNITS

The conductivity of water is measured within a certain distance, so although the one used in the SI is that of S (Siemens) they are usually expressed as S/cm or mS/cm.

We can also find other units of measurement such as ppm (part per million) and TDS (total dissolved solids). The relationship between conductivity and dissolved solids is given by the following equalities:

2 μS/cm = 1 PPM

1 PPM = 640 TDS

BENEFITS OF LOWERING THE EC FROM WATER

The goal is to start with a base water as pure as possible, better if it is 000ppm, in order to obtain the following benefits:

Know at all times which additives and in what quantities will be added.

We will increase the bioavailability of the plant causing greater efficiency of the fertilizers, making them can be absorbed optimally.

Protect, maintain and enhance the use of organic fertilizers, microbial life and beneficial microorganisms.

If we want to prepare a calcium and magnesium base water with an EC of 0.3-0.4, we will have greater control over the necessary amounts.

It allows us to identify in advance the possible symptoms of deficiencies and / or excess nutrients in our plants.

It helps us protect the roots by fortifying the immune system against possible pests and diseases.

It helps to stabilize pH.

Advance collection time and increase production.

Get a quality end product.

With GrowMax Water reverse osmosis system we obtain pure water, eliminating chlorine and helping lower EC by up to 95% the content of mineral salts, heavy metals, herbicides, pesticides and sediments. We also have the 000ppm range to create ultra pure water, ideal for small and medium growers who want to obtain clean and quality water.

WHAT IS CHLORINE?

Chlorine (Cl) is an essential chemical element for many forms of life and it can’t be found in nature in its pure state, usually appears combined with other elements and metals.

It’s a toxic gas with an unpleasant odor that, depending on the degree of concentration, can cause different effects on the human body: from irritations in the eyes and throat, cough, pain and/or burning in the chest to pneumonia and death.

USES OF CHLORINE

Chlorine has a large number of uses in industrial applications and processes, from disinfection and the creation of plastics to the manufacture of drugs, insecticides and dyes. It is used as a disinfectant for equipment, furniture, surgical equipment and hospital enclosures although its most widespread use is to eliminate bacteria, fungi, parasites and viruses in drinking water supplies and swimming pools.

Swimming pool water

HOW DOES THE USE OF CHLORINE AFFECT?

Water not only constitutes most of the weight of a plant and its fruits. In addition, it’s the main stream by which we can introduce without realizing it, substances to our plants that don’t suit them. By making them sick, reducing quantity and yield, decreasing the quality of crops and factors that directly affect such fundamental issues as the taste, aroma and nutritional properties of the fruits. That’s why almost all growers are aware of the importance of the quality of the water they will use in their crops.

Chlorine in water may also cause the appearance of different symptoms of deficiencies and/or excesses of some basic nutrients in the leaves, such as discoloration of older leaves by turning them more yellow or causing small spots to appear grey-brown.

Since chlorine kills all kinds of microbial life, it doesn’t make much sense to use beneficial microorganisms and/or organic fertilizers if we continue to use tap water without giving it any prior treatment. Chlorine does not discriminate against beneficial or malignant microbial life: it destroys them all.

BENEFITS OF USING WATER WITHOUT CHLORINE

Removing chlorine from tap water helps us better control the correct values within the appropriate pH ranges. Not all elements are assimilated with the same efficacy, so it is recommended to use a range of 6.0 to 7.0 since the intermediate value 6.5 (which is the neutral pH), is with which the nutritional elements can be absorbed broadly. Remember that pH values tend to increase as the plant grows. In growth and vegetative phase, we will start with values around 6.0 and increase them to values of 6.4-6.5 until their final phase.

It allows to increase the bioavailability of plants to obtain a greater and optimal absorption of nutrients at different stages of their life cycles.

We protect soil and organic fertilizers that contain beneficial microorganisms, as the latter help to enrich the substrate by better and more quickly transforming the assimilation of organic matter into soluble food for plants.

We finish with the third and last part of the article in which we will see other determining factors to achieve our objective: a quality harvest.

Finally, we will see the methods of manicuring, drying, curing and conservation.

MANICURING

Manicuring is the process in which the stems and leaves of the buds are removed. We comment on the final part of the last article when it is the best time to cut our plants. Well, once we have made the momentous decision, we must choose the method of manicuring … and if we will do it with the plant material still fresh or already dried!

It is important that you look for a well ventilated place or adapt some method of air extraction, always with a carbon filter or similar, so that the strong odors that are going to be released do not accumulate. They can be very annoying and, if you have neighbors, you already know what this can mean … And even if they are a bit uncomfortable, the use of masks is not too much.

FRESH MANICURING

Pruning in green, with the vegetable matter still fresh, is the traditional method. It is a faster process and it is best to do it in a well ventilated place. The best thing to do in this way is that we can have the material ready for curing much sooner than if we let them dry before manicuring. What we usually do many growers when the time comes, is to get together with friends, we laugh, we put on gloves and, with a few scissors, to the mess. Nor is it too much for your compis to bring a work overalls or spare clothes and let them take a shower at the end: the smell can be so strong that even after having showered, the skin may still give off odor.

Scissors in action

DRY MANICURATION

This method may not be so used because it is slower and consists of cutting the plants by their main stem and letting them dry. Once the plants are dry, the manicuring work becomes easier and more comfortable, but more tedious, because if we want to leave some buds with top finishes, we will have to devote more time to the scissors. It is very fast by the time of harvest, but slower by the drying process.

You can remove the larger leaves and leave the rest; In this way we will achieve a more homogeneous drying and the buds will be more protected from light and air.

TRIMMERS

The use of trimmers has become very popular in recent years, making work easier and saving a lot of time. Taking into account the value for money, there are for all pockets (small, portable, industrial) and according to the method that is preferred (manual or automatic), all perfectly perform their function.

There are opposing opinions by the most sybarite growers about the use of these machines because they believe that a lot of resin is wasted … but what if instead of 4 seedlings, do you have 400 or 4000?

               Automatic trimmer                                                 Workstation trimmer

DRYING

Surely drying is the process that most despairs almost all growers, especially those who are learning: a few months have passed since the beginning and the desire to make the first tasting increases day by day.

To follow an optimal drying process, we must also take into account certain parameters of light, ventilation, temperature and relative humidity, if we do not want all the work done to go to waste and ruin the harvest. Drying will determine the final aroma, taste and effect. Any factor that serves to accelerate the process will adversely affect our goal: a quality harvest.

ENABLE THE ROOM

The first step will be to enable a room for drying in which we can control the maximum parameters. Do not have more rooms or space? You can always recondition the room after having collected or purchased a closet, just for this process.

OPTIMAL CONDITIONS

Avoid direct light. Light degrades the resin and hinders the development process of cannabinoids such as THC, CBD and CBN.

Temperature. The appropriate temperature range is between 15oC and 20oC. With higher temperatures the terpenes evaporate easily and quickly. In addition, if we have a high temperature, it is likely that the plants will be dry ahead of time and cause us a great loss of weight and volume.

Humidity. A suitable range for the relative environmental humidity of the room or closet should be between 60% -65%. If it is higher you must include an exhaust extractor and an intake extractor to renew the air, never use a dehumidifier, since any accelerating factor will adversely affect us in the final quality. If it is lower, try to raise it with damp rags, never use a humidifier.

Ventilation. It is highly recommended to renew the air in the dried room. This does not mean that you use fans, another accelerating factor. Use an inlet extractor to renew the air and if you are going to use a fan, do not let the air flow give directly to the plants, better to aim at the floor or ceiling!

TRAYER OR DRYER

Once we have the drying room ready and the optimal parameters as controlled as possible, it is time to lay the plants: either hanging them or in a dryer.

To mount a clothesline we can hang a few ropes from side to side or mount a folding clothesline. We will leave the flowers still on the branches and hang them upside down. Finding the right distance to avoid being in contact will provide us with a homogeneous drying, preventing mold from forming.

To use the dryer we must eliminate all the branches of the flowers and spread them on the surface at different levels. There are different shapes and sizes, but the essential thing here is that they are all made of perforated mesh fabric for the correct aeration of the buds. Even so, it is advisable to move them and turn them once a day.

                             Vertical drying mesh                          Stackable drying mesh

To know and check when the drying process has come to an end, take a branch and fold it. If this creaks means that the time has come and if it still does not, you should leave them a few more days.

THE CURED

Once we have all our flowers very dry and with the crispy branches, it is time to cure, the process in which the flowers lose the rest of the water, the ripening of the cannabinoids has just taken place and the chlorophyll breaks down. Chlorophyll is the pigment that gives plants the green color but that you should remove to avoid harmful residues that alter the original aroma and flavor.

ELIMINATING CHLOROPHYLL

The best way to suppress chlorophyll is by starting a good root cleaning before cutting. The reason for watering plants only with water during the last weeks is not only to eliminate possible remnants of fertilizers and supplements, but also to eliminate chlorophyll: when cutting the food supply to plants, they use chlorophyll as one of their Last food resources. Therefore, it is advisable to increase the amount of irrigation water and do it abundantly during the final root cleaning process.

BOXES

The best method to begin to cure the buds is to keep them in wooden boxes, preferably untreated, of materials such as pine, cedar or oak. There are models on the market designed specifically for this purpose, such as FUM-BOX or 00BOX, with which you can also control humidity. Another effective method is that of a lifetime: in shoe boxes.

CRYSTAL

Airtight glass boats are also a very good option. Although, you will have to open them to aerate them during the first weeks so as not to let the moisture accumulate that the buds will still shed.

ENVELOPES

Self-regulating moisture envelopes have appeared on the market for a while. They are composed of a gel with the property of providing or storing the necessary moisture to maintain optimum conservation. Depending on the quantity to be stored we can find different sizes and when they have solidified it will mean that it is time to renew them. If you do not know what is the optimal point of conservation, the introduction of these envelopes in your boats or boxes, is a very good solution.

Boveda conservation envelopes

THE TASTING

For the buds to be well cured (and hard as stones) they must be between 6 to 8 weeks (we can not talk about specific days, everything will depend on the conditions in which the cure has occurred), that is when it arrives the most anticipated moment, check the final result: the tasting.

THE CONSERVATION

Once we have the buds ready to consume, it’s time to preserve them well, without losing any of their properties.

For this, the first thing is to vacuum pack them in a bag, preferably opaque, so that it does not give them light, in any case.

The second, and that few get to do, is to keep them in a freezer once the vacuum bag is ready. In this way we ensure that our buds do not lose their properties, but in this way, we can keep them for a long time … months, years … it will depend on each one.

When it is time to take it out of the freezer for consumption, it will be enough to leave the bag about 6-8 hours outdoors before opening it and to be able to enjoy that preferred genetics again.

LATEST TIPS

After following all these tips, you will surely get quality crops. If you also want to be good growers, here are the last ones:

• Start by following a nutrient plan, write down all the parameters of the irrigation day (room conditions (temperature, humidity, ppm if you use CO2), temperature, EC and pH of the water, pH and EC of the substrate, etc.) Over time, you will acquire skills and knowledge with the you’ll be able to create your own tables. In addition, the experience gained will always be useful when you try other varieties.
• Before entering CO2 into a room, make sure that you always have all the parameters checked continuously, without any power outages.
• Work for a while the same genetics to learn about it, create the necessary annotations and thus correct the above mistakes. The first thing is the quality, you will have time to optimize the quantity.
• Test different culture techniques and methods (SOG, SCROG, HST, LST). Do it on one or two floors (or trays) because if something doesn’t go well, you’ll always have the rest.
• The best method of learning is trial and error. Try and test things, if you always do the same don’t expect to get different results (yes, don’t forget to write it all down, i.e. that information will be valuable to you later!)
• Be patient, this is the last unbalanced factor!